Winterize That Bike!

Fair weather riders like me pack up the bike when the first flakes of snow start falling. Here's Bill Schmidt's list of things to do to winterize the bike....

• Wash, dry, and wax bike thoroughly.



• Drain coolant, flush system, add new coolant.



• Put some Stabil in the tank (available at auto part stores). Also make sure the tank is as full as possible.



• Ride the bike until warmed up. Warm oil drains faster and carries more sludge with it.



• Change the oil and filter (see below).



• Lube the chain. (Shafties take a break).



• Drain the carb fuel bowls (small screws at the bottom). Open the fuel petcock, place a pan under neath the bike and open the carb drain screw. Let some gas drain, turn the petcock off and let the remainder residual fuel drain. I personally leave the drain screws open all winter to make sure the carbs are dry.



• Remove air filter.



• Remove spark plugs. Inject a small amount of 2-stroke oil into each cylinder. Crank the motor a few times.



• Replace spark plugs.



• Clean your Fork tubes! and wipe with some corrosion inhibiting product.



• Replace air filter.



• Seal the air intakes with duct tape. Mice are very fond of using the airbox as a repository for food and nesting. Also tape or plug air box and exhaust openings to deny moisture a route into the combustion chambers via open valves.



• Remove the battery and put it on a trickle charger in a warm place. If the battery freezes then that damages the cells.



• Put the bike on the centerstand, jack up the front tire also.



• Spray some WD40 into the exhaust pipes, this absorbs water and puts a nice oil coating on the insides of the exhaust system. ONLY do this AFTER the pipes are cool to the touch.



• Seal the ends of the mufflers with plastic bags.



• Put some silicon preservative on a rag and wipe down all the rubber pieces except for the grips, pegs, and tires.
• Lube all cables and moving gizmo's like foot pegs, levers, etc.
• Bleed brakes and clutch. I never do this but some say it should be done.



• Put wooden boards under the tires. I like to keep the tires off of the cold ground. If you can, it's good to roll the bike off of the same spot on the front tire (the back tire is off the pavement). They will slowly lose pressure over time, and you don't want to let the flat tires support the weight of the machine. The cold leeches whatever out of your tires and can cause cracking in the sidewalls. Bad bad bad.



• Cover with a breathable cover and let 'er sleep.

Why Change The Oil?

To change or not to change the oil. This is tantemount to a religious argument among motorcyclists. Some will argue that changing the oil and filter just before putting the motorcycle up for storage removes the acids produced by combustion and of course you don't want those in your engine during long-term storage.

Yet wouldn't an engine that is run constantly throughout the year also be subject to these same acids? It would seem so, therefore leaving the oil in long-term (3 months lets say). Despite this I've decided that changing the oil just before layover can't hurt, and its probably better to leave non-combusted oil in the engine long-term than combusted oil.

Next Spring you will change the oil again (use the good stuff this time). Get the crappy winter oil out. It's cheap protection and you want to take care of your baby.

Here's the view from the other side of the camp...

The obsessive-compulsive types usually change the oil BOTH before and after winter storage because of the 3 month/3,000 mile rule (or 3 month/4,000 mile rule, depending on your bike and oil brand). Personally, I think that's silly since the bike isn't actually in operation during the winter, and is a waste of good oil. They will tell you that the oil breaks down and forms acids, etc, but I think that really only happens during the combustion process and a lot of that stuff gets burned off once it's up to operating temp. Changing it right after you bring her out of hibernation is a very good idea. After the long sit the oil will no longer lube and protect the way it should.

Definitely do NOT leave your engine oil-less. You're inviting condensation & rust problems, and that old acidic oil is still coating your engine's innards. I change the oil, then start it for about a minute to work the new oil through.

It's also not a bad idea to spray your bike down with WD40 or something similar to help keep the metal (bolts, etc.) from corroding due to condensation. Finally, be sure to spray the inside of your pipes with a lubricant to keep the condensation from rusting them from the inside out.

However, the concensus seems to be that one of the worst things you can do to any motor vehicle, is let it sit. A REAL biker would be out riding his bike, at the very least, once a week. One CAMS actually suggested the following:

"I don't know what advise anyone else gave you but I suggest changing oil, gassing up, and heading south."